This is my first real post – I hope it’s insightful. After Bradley Wiggins won the TDF, I though it’d be fun to play around with ovalized chainrings. Anyway, I stumbled upon this paper on optimal chainrings:
http://www.noncircularchainring.be/pdf/Biomechanical%20study%20chainrings%20-%20release%202.pdf
The upshot of the article is on page 33, which states that the Osymmetric has a 0.67% power loss compared to a traditional circular chainring, but if it is optimally set up it can give a 2.5% improvement in power transfer. Most notably, the “best” configuration was one that was never in mass production, the Hull oval. And, in fact, it’s better if it’s in a different orientation. I searched around the entire internets, and no one had ever even tried to make a copy of it.
So, I had to. I looked at various options, and in the end I had Fibrelyte make it for me. At the time, the exchange rate was very favorable and the whole thing cost $140. Not bad for a one-off custom carbon part.
And here it is:
It’s roughly equivalent to a 55 tooth chainring during the power phase, and a 36 tooth chainring during the dead phase. Yeah, it’s crazy.
So, then I put it on my bike and tried it. I’ve never tried any of the other oval chainrings, so I can’t say how those feel, but I can definitely say that on this ring you “feel” like you are cranking during the power phase, but the dead space feels quite easy. But, after about half an hour it felt pretty natural. Before it felt natural, I figured out the fatal flaw with this chainring design: chain drops. As you can see from the picture, there is essentially a very long plateau on each side. As the chain comes around to meet the chainring, essentially the entire chain has to slap down on that plateau. Therefore, you need a pretty straight chainline – meaning, only the middle 3-4 gears can be used on the rear cassette. Apparently, in that paper they did not think of “will this chainring actually be usable on a bike?”
Fail.
Ultimately, that’s why I didn’t post about this sooner. The chainring can’t really be used unless you want to have a 3-4 speed bike. Maybe for a really flat time trial. Otherwise, some further modifications would need to be made, probably adding XX1 style tooth profiles and EGGring style ovalization. I figured I should probably post my “negative results” in case someone else comes along and wants to make the “best oval chainring.”
At least, I hope this provides entertainment value as one of the goofiest chainrings of all time.