Okay, so first up I know there’s no accurate answer due to too many variables, however, give me your best guess if you have some experience… I took up Tri in December (started training for it in Sept) and did a half ironman to keep my girlfriend company. I dug my 19 year old bike out of the garage, stuck some aero bars on, read the forum and bought a second hand power tap. I’ve now done three half ironman distance races with bike times of 2hrs 25 mins (202 watts, 3.3 w/kg - one lap of the IMNZ bike course which is a reasonably flat course but on rough chip), and two at 2hrs 40/41mins with 210 and 214 watts (3.5 w/kg - both of these were hilly courses). I can run fine off the bike at that wattage (just under 1 hr 28 mins), but I’m now considering a new bike since to get aero. As you can see I’ve stuck a disc cover on the back, and bought some aero bars. I also found a 20 year old Bell Vortex Aero helmet, and I put latex tubes inside a Continental GP Attack on the front and a GP Force on the rear (tried to pick as much of the low hanging cheap fruit as I could!). My question is how much time could I save by spending some coin. A new front wheel would be a definite, and possibly a tri bike. My current position is comfortable so I stay in aero for the whole race. I am aware there’s also a minute or so to be saved in transition with a pair of tri shoes, since those road shoes are at least 18 years old too! That’s on the cards too. At the moment though, I’m just asking how much time you think I could save by investing in a new front wheel and possibly a decent tri bike that allows me to get lower, since my stem is as low as it will go on my road bike. Thanks for your thoughts.
The guys who formed the front pack on Saturday (ie rode away after your good swim) are at very similar w/kg (based on racing with them over the years). Thus most of the difference in speed is equipment and position. So up to 13 mins on that course… Less where there isn’t such a cohesive pack.
Any bike that got you forward and lower would allow you to reduce your body drag. And you’d get gains from bull horns and frame aeroness (the amount depending on what you got).
A front wheel is fairly insignificant in comparison to what could be achieved with the right frame choice.
At 3.5w/kg you would be below 2.20 at Taupo half with a good setup. In fact - this athlete rode 2.15 at Taupo on ~3.4.
Blatant plug: if you want find out what your frame options would be - pop down to Cambridge and I can do a fit on the adjustable bike to determine a really slick position and then define the bikes that will allow that position.
I’m not going to comment on a new bike, however you definitely should spend a few dollars and get a new helmet. First and foremost, helmets are much better than 20 years ago. Is it really worth saving a few dollars by risking a traumatic brain injury if you crash? Plus I’m not sure if it meets USAT standards. http://www.usatriathlon.org/...elmet-types-59a.aspx
I agree on the safety aspect, but why should he care if it meets USAT standards or not when he races in NZ?
I’m not going to comment on a new bike, however you definitely should spend a few dollars and get a new helmet. First and foremost, helmets are much better than 20 years ago. Is it really worth saving a few dollars by risking a traumatic brain injury if you crash? Plus I’m not sure if it meets USAT standards. http://www.usatriathlon.org/...elmet-types-59a.aspx
I agree on the safety aspect, but why should he care if it meets USAT standards or not when he races in NZ?
An aero frame/fork get you around 200 grams less drag.
getting rid of the drop bars for a could aero bar would be another 200
That brings us to 400g total or about 4 seconds per kilometer, which would be about 12 minutes saved per flat, non technical ironman. (Since no course is totally flat or free of turns, a bit less in ‘real life’)
Go even faster if it lets you improve your position.
Okay, so first up I know there’s no accurate answer due to too many variables, however, give me your best guess if you have some experience… I took up Tri in December (started training for it in Sept) and did a half ironman to keep my girlfriend company. I dug my 19 year old bike out of the garage, stuck some aero bars on, read the forum and bought a second hand power tap. I’ve now done three ironman races with bike times of 2hrs 25 mins (202 watts, 3.3 w/kg - one lap of the IMNZ bike course which is a reasonably flat course but on rough chip), and two at 2hrs 40/41mins with 210 and 214 watts (3.5 w/kg - both of these were hilly courses). I can run fine off the bike at that wattage (just under 1 hr 28 mins), but I’m now considering a new bike since to get aero. As you can see I’ve stuck a disc cover on the back, and bought some aero bars. I also found a 20 year old Bell Vortex Aero helmet, and I put latex tubes inside a Continental GP Attack on the front and a GP Force on the rear (tried to pick as much of the low hanging cheap fruit as I could!). My question is how much time could I save by spending some coin. A new front wheel would be a definite, and possibly a tri bike. My current position is comfortable so I stay in aero for the whole race. I am aware there’s also a minute or so to be saved in transition with a pair of tri shoes, since those road shoes are at least 18 years old too! That’s on the cards too. At the moment though, I’m just asking how much time you think I could save by investing in a new front wheel and possibly a decent tri bike that allows me to get lower, since my stem is as low as it will go on my road bike. Thanks for your thoughts.
I’m not going to comment on a new bike, however you definitely should spend a few dollars and get a new helmet. First and foremost, helmets are much better than 20 years ago. Is it really worth saving a few dollars by risking a traumatic brain injury if you crash? Plus I’m not sure if it meets USAT standards. http://www.usatriathlon.org/...elmet-types-59a.aspx]
+100. You gain more time with a new helmet, improved position and better front wheel than the frame itself. I so, so wish I had a power meter 6 years ago so I could compare my speed at a given wattage on my old road bike with clip-ons, road helmet, non-aero wheels, etc… vs. my ride now.
You would just end up ripping those drop bars off =)
I so, so wish I had a power meter 6 years ago so I could compare my speed at a given wattage on my old road bike with clip-ons, road helmet, non-aero wheels, etc… vs. my ride now.
You would just end up ripping those drop bars off =)
I so, so wish I had a power meter 6 years ago so I could compare my speed at a given wattage on my old road bike with clip-ons, road helmet, non-aero wheels, etc… vs. my ride now.
Hell, the OP’s road bike position I think is better than mine was.
Here’s my experience then… get a good bike and wheels, get a good position and TRAIN A LOT MORE and at the Olympic distance you might go as much as 4mph faster and at the same time run 7 minutes faster despite getting older.
That helmet is USAT legal and has always tested very well. In fact, you could say it was a precursor for today’s trend of bobtail helmets. It is a great choice if you have a “head down” position (me).
I so, so wish I had a power meter 6 years ago so I could compare my speed at a given wattage on my old road bike with clip-ons, road helmet, non-aero wheels, etc… vs. my ride now.
I did a 112 training ride yesterday with my new 2014 Trek SC 7.5 with Flo wheels and areo helmet. Last year I was riding a Trek 1.2 road bike with stock everything. Granted my bike fitness is improved but I was over 30 minutes faster than my best ride with my older equipment.
At the moment though, I’m just asking how much time you think I could save by investing in a new front wheel and possibly a decent tri bike that allows me to get lower, since my stem is as low as it will go on my road bike.
Wow… old school quill stem. First stop is to get an adapter that allows you to install a modern stem, then buy a cheap 35 deg Dimension that will give you a good deal more drop. Maybe ~$50 total.
Try that before spending more. If you can get a deeper (>25mm) front wheel, with minimal aero spokes for cheap, that would help. A Flo 30 is probably the best bang for buck on a front wheel unless you can find something decent and used, but position is the most important factor.
Also make sure that your hub and BB bearings turn freely.
And if you are daring, 20mm Supersonics is what I’d run for racing…
Thanks for all the comments guys. It looks as though the consensus is I’ll probably save >5 mins over a half iron distance which would make a significant difference to my placing, so I’ll look into options. Rruff, thanks for the suggestion of a stem adapter - I’m pretty confident I’d be comfortable way lower if only I could get there, so that seems like a good suggestion that I hadn’t thought of. Thanks.
