I recently installed trainer road app and did the 20min and 8min tests. I also did one of the workouts this morning.
I thought I followed the directions properly, but something doesn’t feel right.
I am not saying I am a super strong rider, or a weak rider, but I am a capable rider, with much experience and have been training most of the winter with my team.
So I did the tests and am not able to get close to the “peaks/targets” of the training workouts/tests, which aren’t even that much. Example 230 watts or 240.
My setup is a Kurt Kenetic Road Machine, Garmin Cadence sensor, HR, etc
I sync’d the cadence and HR monitor, but am not sure about the KKRM trainer.
Do I need a sensor on the fly wheel of the kkrm for it to sync? I was under the impression by choosing kkrm in the drop down choices that it would figure it out and sync automatically.
I had a cadence of 145 at one point and wasn’t even half to the target watts of 230 or the default 200?? There is no way I can sustain beyond all out threshold for an hour workout or even an 8min test.
I know I have opened myself up here for some good ribbing, but would also like some input.
I have tried searching the FAQ sections of TR but haven’t had any luck
I have the garmin cadence sensor, is that not a speed sensor also? I realize riding outside with gps I get my speed through the 910xt. Is there a separate speed sensor also?
Are you in the proper gear?? Cadence should be normal riding cadence…assuming you set everything up correctly
Normal riding cadence in comfortable cruising gear is 90+ cadence, drills can be higher spin rate or lower simulating hill climbs.
Just to clarify, TrainerRoad won’t ‘sync’ with the KKRM ever, it will use the known power curve for that trainer (why you choose it) to calculate virtual power based on wheel speed, so you’re speed needs to be known, your wheel size needs to be correct, etc…
So why we’re you at 145? In an ftp test you should be closer to 95. It sounds like you probably don’t have your sensor set up correctly for speed and cadence. You should see both displayed on you 910. If speed is not displaying and its paired with your garmin theres the problem. Just use the gsrmin to verify the sensor output. It wont matter for TR but its a good verification. Double check your specified trainer in settings. And don’t do you ftp test at a ridiculous cadence your wasting your time. Play around with the software and sensors until it’s right.
I had a cadence of 145 at one point and wasn’t even half to the target watts of 230 or the default 200??
Like others have said, this is most likely an issue with the speed/cadence sensor and/or the virtual power setting. However, I’d like to know how close to your LTHR were you during this set? This will tell me if its the virtual power setting.
I have the garmin cadence sensor, is that not a speed sensor also? I realize riding outside with gps I get my speed through the 910xt. Is there a separate speed sensor also?
Do you have a magnet on your rear wheel so the speed sensor will work? Inside without one, the Garmin will not register the speed because you aren’t going anywhere.
I agree with everyone else that you did not select the Kurt Kinetic Road Machine power curve.
However, the knob resistance and tire pressure also matter. I had the Kurt inride and Stages and have correlated 4 knob turns and 110 psi to match the wattages. It may vary depending on your tire. I have the blue Tacx Trainer Tire.
Edit: Re-reading your post, I see that you did choose the power curve. Another thing to look at is whether your wheel diameter of the wheel is correct for calculating speed.
And FYI, knob turns matter a lot. I found 2 knob turns vs 4 changes the power by about 30-40 watts.
I have the garmin cadence sensor, is that not a speed sensor also? I realize riding outside with gps I get my speed through the 910xt. Is there a separate speed sensor also?
Likely this is is the problem…you’re missing a speed sensor. What model of sensor do you have? Some are speed/cadence, but others are just cadence. In TR, check that you’ve selected the right sensor. I.e. if you have speed/cadence sensor make sure that’s what you selected in TR and not just cadence. Also check the value of wheel circumfrance. If you’ve keyed in an odd number here the virtual power numbers will be off.
If you’re using virtualpower (meaning no power meter), you can ignore the absolute values of the virtual watts. You training will be just as good as long as you do the true all-out FTP test, and use that FTP.
It’s pointless to compare virtualpower to others’ real power on these forums - the VP is very variable between units, apparently despite claims it isn’t. However, for the KK, it’s very precise for one unit, meaning your VP should be extremely reproducible for given effort - mine on a Fluid2 was reproducible down to 0.1mph, and further confirmed when I got a powermeter to be extremely precise.
I would make sure that you have selected the right power curve for KK on TR, and I think there may be a wheel size setting as well that you want to make sure is set for the road bike wheel size (not mtn bike wheel). That should get your numbers more reasonable, but remember that diferences in power on the range of 20-80watts are normal for virtualpower, so forget about using it to compare against others with powermeters.
Boom,
I have had similar problems with my TrainerRoad. Although I have a different trainer, the rest of my setup is the same. The cadence is always solid on mine, too. But the power numbers were not. I would have to pedal at a rate that is not humanly possible. The power numbers are based off the speed. When this happens, I usually have to adjust the Garmin magnet that attaches to one of the rear wheel spokes. Closer (to the sensor) is not necessarily better. For example, I moved that magnet so it faces backwards (away from) the GSC-10 sensor arm. I also moved it so that it doesn’t line up perfectly to the sensor. It doesn’t seem logical, I know. I read this somewhere on a ST forum. I’ve been doing it, and now I get solid virtual power numbers. Good luck to you!