So, as previously posted, I recently came across a non-recalled Cervelo R2.5. I’ve built it up with Force and some Eastons and so far so good. The BB has yet to explode, and the bike rides pretty well. I have noticed, however, that the wheel sits a bit funny in the rear dropouts. Specifically, between the seatstays the wheel is out about 1-3mms to the left. Funnily enough, the wheel is very close if not exactly dead center between the chainstays. To avoid possible rubbing against the left seatstay under power, I’ve dished the wheel a bit to the driveside, as it were. Of course, in doing so, the wheel at the chainstays is now closer to the right chainstay than the left.
So, my question is: which is better/worse? Having the tire closer to the seatstay or to the chainstay? I measured the frame with string and ruler and it’s fine. As mentioned, the bike rides fine–I’ve had it up to about 65 km/hr or 40mph and it feels okay, though certainly a bit twitchier than my Evo–though I have noticed that when hammering in or out of the saddle around 50kmhr that it seems to drift?/float?/push?/ to the left ever so slightly. This is not to say that the bike doesn’t stay straight, but rather than it feels like my right foot seems to “give way” a bit more on the downstroke when sprinting. This could be a complete psychological fabrication.
I gather that wheel alignment issues were a bit of a thing with earlyish R3s and R5s. Any thoughts?
Cheers!
My main thought is that I would never dish a wheel off center.
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Yeah, I’m starting to think the same. I haven’t had any wheel rub on the chainstay so far, and I’m so unfit right now that whatever power I can muster shouldn’t put the wheel out that much. I’m inclined to re-dish the wheel and hope for the best.
Still, I invite others’ feedback in the manner. I’m mostly concerned with hard cornering and fast descents (70km/hr+). The last thing I want to worry about that speed is issues of alignment etc but, so it goes when buying used high grade carbon from 2005 (!).
The R2.5 was a great early carbon frame. Enjoy!
Typically this kind of mild misalignment is symptom-free. In fact a little asymmetry slightly decreases any tendency to shimmy or speed wobble.
If you like, you can file the top of the left drop out a touch. Remember the rim moves about 3 to 4 times farther than your file, so go slowly.
Cheers,
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Thanks Damon, I appreciate the insight.
I’ve considered filing the dropout just a hair, but that’s a bit of a “no return” move so I think, for the time being, I’ll re-dish the wheel (I’m now convinced that that would account for the weird sprinting feel) and see how things go on the descents etc.
It really is a nice frame! Lugged carbon still looks so, so good. I’m coming from a 2013 Supersix Evo Red so, of course, it doesn’t feel quite as stiff or as smooth over jittery rough stuff as the Evo did, but outside of that it’s remarkable how similar they feel.
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Hi jonjohns87,
Yeah, carbon lugs really are of a classic era. Frame performance now has certainly surpassed those days! But they just look a certain way that seems very right to my eyes. 
I’m not surprised your other bike feels stiffer, but the 2.5 is smoother on the jittery stuff. The difference is measurable, but very small, probably literally imperceptible, so it’s understandable the other ride sensations (and modern marketing) could suggest the opposite to the rider’s mind.
You’re right to go slowly in frame mods, but after thinking it through to be sure, don’t hesitate to file a bit off the dropout. It’s SOP in frame production.
Cheers,
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If a wheel is going to rub a seat stay, it will tend to rub the left seat stay. So your wheel is leaning towards the danger side… I would think the R2.5 has enough clearance for that to be ok though.
Huge thanks for the information! I’ve worked for a couple of Cervelo dealers in Canada, and your helping out, here, further cements my opinion that Cervelo is a pretty top drawer company to deal with. Cheers!
Hi jonjohns87,
Yeah, carbon lugs really are of a classic era. Frame performance now has certainly surpassed those days! But they just look a certain way that seems very right to my eyes.
I’m not surprised your other bike feels stiffer, but the 2.5 is smoother on the jittery stuff. The difference is measurable, but very small, probably literally imperceptible, so it’s understandable the other ride sensations (and modern marketing) could suggest the opposite to the rider’s mind.
You’re right to go slowly in frame mods, but after thinking it through to be sure, don’t hesitate to file a bit off the dropout. It’s SOP in frame production.
Cheers,
Huge thanks for all of your help! I’ve worked for a couple of Cervelo dealers in Canada, and your information and advice for a 10 year old bike on an internet forum (of all places) further cements my opinion that Cervelo is a pretty top drawer company to deal with. Cheers!
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My pleasure, jonjohns87. We recognize that even though a bike may be 10 years old (or older!) is, by itself, not a reason to stop riding it.
Cheers,